nice triple-posting amirite
Final review of everything I've recently sampled from the previous posts, after taking the time to skin test all of them. Refer back to those posts for general impressions, I'm more expanding on what I wrote there plus providing performance numbers (in hours of projection and longevity) based off at least two separate wears but sometimes up to five if I can't easily pin it down initially.
For fun and suspense, I will work my way from the worst-rated up to the top.
[1/5] Noir de Noir, La Tosca
Noir de Noir (Tom Ford) - On skin, the mustiness from the truffle is toned WAY down, it's mostly black rose and vanilla. Vanilla begins to take over after an hour. I actually like it a lot now, it's almost like a combo of Atomic Rose's vanilla plus Oud Satin Mood Extrait's darkness but the performance doesn't approach either. Moderate projection for ~3 hours, hints up to 6hr, skin scent for 7-8hr.
Final Verdict: I understand why people like this after skin testing, but with inferior performance to the other aforementioned rose fragrances I wouldn't say it's "Full-Bottle Worthy" even though it does have a unique scent profile. OSME is the better dark/sexy rose. Pass.
Sam
La Tosca (Xerjoff) - On skin, this smells equally if not
even more abhorrent somehow. If I was a lesser man, this would be a scrubber. Unfortunately, it also has insane projection for 3-4hr and 12+ hours of longevity as a skin scent. A bit of smokiness comes in the deep drydown.
Verdict: NOOOOO GOD! NO GOD, PLEASE NO! NO! NO!
NOOOOOOOOOOOO!!
[1.5/5] Luxor, MV Agusta, Tabac Rose, Musk Oud, Jubilation XXV Man, Oud Silk Mood Extrait
Luxor (Xerjoff) - Doesn't smell cough syrupy in the air, only up close, but the menthol feel remains on skin. It's an interesting scent for sure. Very evocative, gives me the feeling of an Egyptian pharaoh: extremely warming, very regal, musky like I was freshly exhumed from my pyramid. I feel rich wearing this. Projection starts off weak but strengthens significantly after 30 minutes as a smoky incense comes in. Projects for 2-3hr, skin scent for 7-8hr.
Verdict: Very interesting scent, again, but not to my tastes. Pass.
MV Agusta (Xerjoff) - Smells mostly the same on skin, a chokingly strong leather, but the clove is a little less present. Nuclear projection for 2-3hr, but mediocre longevity that peters out after 6-8hr.
Verdict: It accomplishes what it wants but still isn't my bag at all. Pass for me, but
recommended only you love strong skanky leather.
Tabac Rose (BDK) - Like NdN, the opening is much less pungent on skin which actually makes for a rather pleasant scent. Heavy plum, moderate rose, hints of cinnamon and chocolate. Tobacco comes in the late drydown. Performance is outstanding at 4-5 hours of solid projection and 10-12hr longevity.
Verdict: I'm surprised, I actually like it. Kinda grandma-ish vibes, though. I can't pull this one off. Pass for me, but
recommended for older women.
Musk Oud (Kilian) - On skin, it's still pretty musky but the lemon is very prominent and stays the whole way through. Makes me think of a "dirty" Safran Colognise (further down the list), it's just a very creamy lemon scent. Somehow. Moderate projection for 2-3hr, skin scent for 10-12hr.
Verdict: Just okay. Not a fan. Pass.
Jubilation XXV Man (Amouage) - On skin, opening is much better as the cinnamon is very prominent. Quite decadent. Projection is only moderate for the first hour, after which that weird mentholic accord comes in and it dies after ~2hr. Skin scent for 6-8hr.
Verdict: I still don't like it once it begins to dry down, and the performance is poor. Pass.
Oud Silk Mood Extrait (MFK) - Smells the same on skin as paper, overwhelmingly mentholic. Weak projection for 2-3hr, skin scent for 7-8hr.
Verdict: Trash. Pass.
[2/5] Grand Soir, Oud Satin Mood EDP, Overture Man, Herod, Oajan, Ivory Route
Grand Soir (MFK) - On skin, the benzoin sharpness is toned way down. Basically creates a warm scent bubble of caramel goodness around me. Performance is actually difficult to evaulate because it smells so much like it's just a natural extension of my body, but I estimate 4-5hr of low projection and 10-12hr of total longevity.
Verdict: I do like it, and the way it performs is very interesting, but there's still hints of that benzoin sharpness that turns me off. Pass for me, but
recommended.
Oud Satin Mood EDP (MFK) - Same as Grand Soir, the benzoin is toned way down making for a significantly more pleasing scent but with a hint of unpleasant sharpness remaining. Strong projection for 3-4hr, skin scent for 8-9hr.
Verdict: I still wish the rose was more of the star here, plus the benzoin thing. Pass.
Overture Man (Amouage) - On skin, comes across less boozy but is otherwise the same: a very strong burnt woody scent. Strong projection for ~2hr peters out around 4hr, skin scent for 10-12hr.
Verdict: Opinion unchanged, an intriguing piece of art but not something I want to wear. Pass.
Herod (PdM) - Much more pleasing on skin, as the cinnamon is prominent in the opening here to drown out the overwhelming-on-paper tobacco. That "weird sharpness" I describe previously also never rears its ugly head. Poor projection for <2hr, skin scent for 4-5hr.
Verdict: It's okay, but performance is a total bomb for me anyway even if I liked it more. Pass.
Oajan (PdM) - Another strong benzoin blunted by my skin, completely this time. Straight honey-cinnamon that picks up vanilla slowly over time. Nuclear projection for 2-3hr, skin scent for 4-5hr. You could say it burns bright but dissipates quickly... like a fireball.
The only sample that pulled unsolicited compliments. Wore it to yoga, the ladies were practically drooling over me.
Verdict: I can't say I'm not flattered by my yoga class fawning all over me.
Not sure the longevity is FWB, but I'd strongly consider at least a sizable decant to further evaluate... and wear around the girls. *ahem*
Ivory Route (Xerjoff) - On skin, the opening is actually quite fresh and sweet... it's surprisingly similar to Naxos and JTC 400? Huh, didn't expect that. Develops this slightly cool mentholic sensation as it dries down, though. Very weak projection for 2-3hr, skin scent for 6-7hr.
Verdict: Wow, this one smells way different on skin, but it still doesn't compare to either of the aforementioned. Pass.
[2.5/5] Naxos, Safran Colognise, Side Effect, Aqua Celestia
Naxos (Xerjoff) - On skin, opening smells the same. Tobacco still comes on a bit strongly after ~30min, but much less drastically. Kinda smoky too. Very well balanced on skin, whereas Pure Havane becomes almost sickly sweet. Good performance too, 3-5hr of moderate projection and 7-10hr longevity.
Verdict: I'm definitely much closer to popular opinion now, but... JTC 400 is better in the same honey-tobacco-vanilla scent family that has become so popular of recent. Pass.
Safran Colognise (Nishane) - On skin, the florals are a smidge stronger but still has that nebulous weird vibe to it. I think it's the saffron combined with some other notes? A gentle leather enters after ~30 minutes. Very weak, aura-like projection for 2-3hr, skin scent for 8-10hr... However, I did wear this to the gym once on a 80F day and it actually came alive in high heat. Has a wispy, kinda creamy lemon scent that I mentioned in Musk Oud's review.
Verdict: Not to my tastes, and kinda wonky performance. Pass.
Side Effect (Initio) - Smells identical on skin, overwhelmingly boozy and tobaccoey but eventually settling down to a boozy woods. Moderate projection for 2-3hr, skin scent for 8-10hr.
Verdict: Not much to say here. Pass.
Aqua Celestia (MFK) - On skin, the sharpness is muted but it's still supremely limey. Performance is nonexistent at <2hr projection and 4-5hr longevity.
Verdict: Performance is way too poor for its price. Too limey for me anyway. Pass.
[3/5] Baccarat Rouge 540 EDP, Carlisle, Colognise, Baccarat Rouge 540 Extrait, Apollonia
Baccarat Rouge 540 EDP (MFK) - Wow. The subtle sweetness and woody accords really come alive on skin. Maintains a sexy ethereal nature (transparency, airiness, wispiness). Performs on skin as it does on paper, where it somehow gets stronger up till about ~2 hours in. Projects for 3-4hr total, skin scent for 7-8hr. Leans kinda feminine to me, though. Evokes the image of what a guy might imagine a woman's sweat to smell like, even if sweat doesn't actually smell like that.
Verdict: This is so subtle and sexy, like it's very light but at the same time doesn't fade quickly like many soft scents. Though I ultimately don't think I will buy after all, as it's expensive and slightly feminine to my nose,
100% FBW.
Carlisle (PdM) - On skin, apple takes the lead in the opening but otherwise it smells the same. Strong projection for ~30min, weak projection for 2-3hr, skin scent for 6-8hr.
Verdict: Still kinda just meh-good, nothing special. Layton is the better fancy apple scent. Pass.
Colognise (Nishane) - Smells identical on skin. Low-moderate projection for 2-3hr, skin scent for 6-8hr.
Verdict: Meh. Pass.
Baccarat Rouge 540 Extrait (MFK) - I get maybe a hint of a creamy almond accord, but for all intents and purposes I find this to be basically identical to the EDP except more thick/dense. Performance is slightly better at solid projection for ~4hr, skin scent for 16+hr (the highest rating I have).
Verdict: I simply prefer the EDP. The transparency of the EDP makes it a very special fragrance IMO, and more versatile to boot. This fills in the proverbial holes and makes the scent just another heavy, full-bodied evening fragrance. Pass, but only because the EDP is better (and cheaper too).
Apollonia (Xerjoff) - On skin, smells the same. Actually okay projection for 2-3hr, longevity as a skin scent is hard to say since it blends so seamlessly into body odor as a pure, clean musk. Somewhere in the 6-10hr range.
Verdict: Too simple and non-perfumey for my tastes, but
FBW if you like minimalistic scents.
[3.5/5] Aventus, Reflection Man, Layton, JTC 400, Aqua Celestia Forte, Pikovaya Dama, Terre d'Hermes Parfum, L'Homme Ultime, L'Homme Ideal Cool
Aventus (Creed) - Opening lacks in smokiness on skin and projection is weak, but both the smoke and projection come on stronger after an hour. Projects for 2-3hr, skin scent for 8-10hr.
Verdict: Still fairly pleasant but nothing special to me. Pass for me.
Reflection Man (Amouage) - On skin, the pepper is much less abrasive and I absolutely LOVE how the super-clean white florals come through. It's basically a lightly scented version of Apollonia, or perhaps a less soapy white floral version of Prada L'Homme. Weak projection for 2-3hr, skin scent for 5-6hr.
Verdict: Decant-worthy. I'm loving the scent, but I want to evaluate the performance further and take more time to decide if it's FBW.
Layton (PdM) - Identical on skin, a fancy spiced apple/fruit pie. Projects strongly for 2-3hr, skin scent for 8-10hr.
Verdict: I get the hype but similar to Aventus, I just kinda like it. Pass for me.
JTC 400 (Xerjoff) - On skin, comes alive with a wonderful balance of sweet fruits, florals, and spices. Like a slightly floral Naxos. Strong projection for 3-4hr, skin scent for 7-8hr.
Verdict: 100% FBW, though I won't buy a bottle. This is my favorite scent in the tobacco-vanilla family I've tried, and the performance is really good.
Aqua Celestia Forte (MFK) - Same as paper, a smoother and mintier OG. Performance not noticeably better, <2hr projection and 4-5hr longevity.
Verdict: Ass performance. Pass.
Pikovaya Dama (Xerjoff) - Comes across very green on skin, like rose stems. Very dry, oddly abrasive. Don't care for it. Weak projection for 2-3hr, skin scent for 8-9hr.
Verdict: Still weird, but more weird-bad than weird-good now. Pass.
Terre d'Hermes Parfum (Hermes) - Smells the same but my skin eats this. Very weak projection for 2-3hr, skin scent for 4-5hr.
Verdict: I still prefer the freshness in the EDT and the performance is even worse. Pass.
L'Homme Ultime (YSL) - On skin, mid notes come in prominently from the start. Nice but not amazing. Weak projection for 2-3hr, skin scent for 5-6hr.
Verdict: "Nice but not amazing." Pass.
L'Homme Ideal Cool (Guerlain) - Smells the same on skin, including the progression of accords over time. Weak projection for 2-3hr, skin scent for 6-8hr.
Verdict: Guerlain Homme EDP is a better minty fresh scent from the same house, and it's cheaper to boot. Pass.
[4/5] A-men Pure Malt, Mefisto Gentiluomo, Oud Silk Mood EDP, Via Cavour I, Millesime Imperial, 40 Knots, Aqua Universalis, Uden Overdose, Eau des Merveilles
A*men Pure Malt (Mugler) - Orange comes through even more prominently on skin, otherwise smells the same. Also, dabber vials still SUCK. Projects for ~2hr tops, skin scent for 4-5hr.
Verdict: Smells nice, but performance is too poor. Pass.
Mefisto Gentiluomo (Xerjoff) - On skin, the citrus stays closer to skin while the florals project more. Projects for <2hr, skin scent for 4-5hr.
Verdict: I still like it a lot, but again the performance is too poor, especially at this price point. Pass.
Oud Silk Mood EDP (MFK) - Smells the same, nice, but scent dies almost immediately. Projects for ~2hr even with judicious spraying, skin scent for ~6hr.
Verdict: Good-not-great scent, bad performance. Pass, again.
Via Cavour I (Xerjoff) - On skin, the chocolate and rose come through more prominently. Weak projection for 2-3hr, skin scent for 7-8hr.
Verdict: Slightly better performance than the last three, but still meh for a scent I just like. Pass.
Millesime Imperial (Creed) - Smells the same. Performance is better than I expected from its reputation, but still not great. Very weak projection for 2-3hr, skin scent for 8-10hr.
Verdict: Sits too close to skin. Pass.
40 Knots (Xerjoff) - On skin, smells
much darker. Deep woody notes, noticeable spiciness (clove? pepper?), kinda salty too. Moderate projection for 2-3hr, skin scent for 8-10hr.
Verdict: Okay, this one is pretty interesting. So dark I don't actually think it's that versatile, though. Still taking AdGP over it. Pass.
Aqua Universalis (MFK) - Smells identical on skin. Nonexistent performance at <2hr projection, <4hr longevity.
Verdict: Yeah... Pass.
Uden Overdose (Xerjoff) - On skin, still a kinda sparkling spicy version of Uden. Seems to get a boozy accord back as it dries down, but it's very dry. Tobacco is only apparent up close. Worse performance than Uden but still very good, weak projection for ~3hr with 7-8hr longevity.
Verdict: FBW if you prefer the tweak to the Uden formula. I don't, so pass for me. Some people say it smells way different, I think they're very similar just UO is slightly woodier and dry.
Eau des Merveilles (Hermes) - On skin, just as bright and fresh as it was on paper. Bad performance, though. Weak projection for ~2hr, skin scent 4-5hr.
Verdict: Like the scent, performance is just too weak though. Pass.
[4.5/5] A-men Pure Havane, Hacivat, Uden, Pegasus, Renaissance, Mefisto, Masculin Pluriel, Aqua Universalis Forte, Richwood, Terre d'Hermes EDT, Homme EDP
A*men Pure Havane (Mugler) - On skin, comes off almost sickly sweet. Still decent, but it's a little imbalanced now compared to similar options. Also, did I mention dabbers blow? Weak projection for ~3hr, skin scent for 6-8hr.
Verdict: Never buy dabber samples. Also, I find this worse than a myriad of similar options. Pass.
Hacivat (Nishane) - Smells bad up close on skin, where the patchouli and jasmine are overwhelming, but it's fine in the air. Surprisingly weak projection, though, for 2-3hr. Skin scent for 10-12hr. Very mossy in deep drydown.
Verdict: FBW, but I don't love it enough to buy it for the mediocre performance I experienced and I like Uden more which is very similar. Pass for me. Also, does not smell that similar to Aventus. *ahem*
Uden (Xerjoff) - On skin, takes ~20 minutes for the boozy accord to hit me like a freight train and then quickly settles. Powdery vanilla creeps in around 2hr. Excellent performance with strong projection for 3-5hr, skin scent for 10-12hr.
Verdict: FBW full-stop. Bought it.
Pegasus (PdM) - On skin, smells the same. Weak projection for 3-4hr, skin scent for 12+hr. Basically a strictly superior Armani Code Absolu in my eyes.
Verdict: Decant-worthy. Unlike Reflection Man, this is a little bit about the scent in addition to the performance. Do I love it enough? Maybe. Does it project enough? Maybe. Not sure.
Renaissance (Xerjoff) - Smells the same, a lovely bright and fresh mint citrus. Projects for <2hr, ~2hr with double sprays, dead after 5-6hr.
Verdict: Sigh... My favorite of all the freshies, but its performance is just too poor for how much it costs. Regretful pass.
Mefisto (Xerjoff) - Projects very lemon cleaner. All in all still compares the same to Gentiluomo with the same bad performance, <2hr projection and 4-5hr longevity. Drydown is more rosy, ambery, musky.
Verdict: Same ol' song. Pass.
Masculin Pluriel (MFK) - On skin, the citrus opening comes across a little too sour/sharp but eventually settles down. Weak projection for ~2hr, skin scent for 6-8hr.
Verdict: Opening is offputting on skin and performance isn't good enough at this price point. Pass.
Aqua Universalis Forte (MFK) - Citruses come across more balanced on skin, it's less pure orangey. Projection <2hr, longevity <4hr.
Verdict: I prefer more orange anyway, but dear Lord that performance. Pass.
Richwood (Xerjoff) - Smells slightly powdery on skin, which I don't get on paper. Otherwise the same, a slightly floral Uden. Moderate projection for 3-4hr, skin scent for 12+hr.
Verdict: FBW on scent if you like how it compares to Uden + Overdose, but price is offputting. I was one click away from pulling the trigger on it during Fragrancebuy.ca's giveaway contest, due to the 25%-two-frags-from-one-house deal. Ultimately, I decided Uden + DHI + Guerlain Homme gave my collection enough woodiness to save my $240.
Terre d'Hermes EDT (Hermes) - The earthy accords come through stronger on skin, which isn't my bag but it doesn't bother me that much. Weak projection for 2-3hr, skin scent for 5-6hr.
Verdict: FBW for its price. Performance isn't great, but it's cheap enough to overspray and the scent is still good plus fairly unique.
Guerlain Homme EDP - Way different on skin. On paper, there's a clear progression through the top to the base but on skin everything blends together from the start. Very green and aromatic, slightly woody, with a gentle whiff of the top notes lying... on top. Projection is low but gives off a pleasant, mature aura for 2-3hr. Skin scent for 6-7hr.
Verdict: FBW for twice the price I paid to actually "sample" it. $36/100mL on FragranceNet, and the testers are $3 cheaper when in stock. Highway robbery, this is an excellent versatile and sophisticated scent.
[5/5] Nio, Starlight, Atomic Rose, Elysium, Oud Satin Mood Extrait, Dior Homme Intense
Nio (Xerjoff) - Smells the same on skin... but wow does my skin devour this. Projects for an hour tops, gone after two hours.
Verdict: Sigh... Pass. Makes Renaissance look like beast mode in comparison, and this costs twice as much.
Starlight (Xerjoff) - Smells the same on skin, it's absolutely divine. Nuclear performance, 4-5hr strong projection with just two sprays with hints up to 8hr. Skin scent for 10-12hr.
Verdict: FBW. First major purchase.
Atomic Rose (Initio) - The jasmine is more noticeable on skin, giving it an airy vibe reminiscent of BR540. It's BR540 with rose instead of woods. Vanilla starts to comingle around 3hr in. Strong projection for 4-5hr, skin scent for 9-11hr.
Verdict: Somehow, this comes across more unisex to me than BR540.
FBW. Bought a ~97% full bottle off Reddit at a good price.
Elysium Cologne (Roja) - Smells the same on skin, excellent, but... performance as trash as feared. Projects for <2hr, longevity 4-5hr.
Verdict: Can't justify a $300 bottle of perfume I have to overspray like the dickens to smell. Amazing scent, but pass.
Oud Satin Mood Extrait (MFK) - Sadly, the cinnamon is harder to notice on skin because that really complements the "jammy" rose, but it's still quite amazing. Great evening complement to Atomic Rose if you wanted to be "the rose guy" (or gal, since they're both unisex scents and arguably feminine-leaning even). Performance is fucking insane. Strong projection for 3-4hr, hints up to 10
(!)hr, skin scent for 16+hr.
Verdict: FBW, but not sure I can justify buying based on price and overlapping so heavily with Atomic Rose.
Dior Homme Intense - Smells the same on skin, though the woods come through more immediately. Weak projection for 2-3hr, skin scent for 8-10hr.
Verdict: This is the best smelling thing ever and the mediocre performance can be overlooked since it's not an absurdly expensive niche fragrance.
100% FBW.
And... that's it! I've finally done it!
Summing it all up, my FBW-worthies are: Starlight, Uden, Atomic Rose, and Dior Homme Intense I bought. BR540 EDP, JTC 400, Richwood I won't buy. Oud Satin Mood Extrait (cost), Pegasus (scent/performance), Reflection Man (performance) I'm still on the fence about. Guerlain Homme EDP + Terre d'Hermes EDT are worth the low price. Tabac Rose, MV Agusta, Grand Soir, Hacivat, Uden Overdose, and Apollonia I'd recommend for others but not myself. Oajan I might buy a decant to impress my local yoga studio. I better try Layton at yoga too now...
What I've learned:
- Base notes often come through more immediately on skin than on paper.
- Skin often smooths out very sharp or harsh notes on paper.
- Those previous two things said, my ultimate opinion didn't drastically change between paper and skin testing. Nothing I actively disliked on paper suddenly became FBW after skin testing, even if they crossed the threshold from dislike to like, and only a couple of average scents really elevated themselves (BR540 and JTC 400). Skin testing is much more about evaluating performance, to eliminate spending prohibitive amounts of money on expensive niche scents that require overly heavy spraying to project and last, than changing my opinion on the scent itself.